Lamb pinches

A Middle Eastern-spiced play on Spanish pinchos. Perfect with a toothpick stuck in, served alongside beer or bubbles. Or use these little nuggets of joy to top a crunchy Israeli-style chopped salad… or as a punchy accompaniment to a delicate pilaf. Literally never not delicous.

  • 500g lamb
  • 2 tsp pul biber
  • ½ tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ¼ tsp ground allspice
  • 1 tsp dried mint
  • 1 tsp onion granules
  • ½ tsp garlic granules
  • ½ lemon (or 3 tbsp lemon juice)
  • 1 tsp salt
  • Black pepper
  • 2 tbsp veg oil
  1. Dump the lamb mince into a bowl and enthusiastically scatter over all of the spices
  2. Squeeze in a small amount of lemon juice (keeping the rest of the half lemon for later)
  3. Mix thoroughly with your hands, making sure the spices are well-distributed and squeezing the mixture together into a firm-ish ball
  4. Heat the oil in a large non-stick pan over a medium-high heat
  5. Pinch off small pieces of the minced lamb mixture (just using your thumb and two fingers, don’t compress them or roll them – uneven and rough around the edges is the name of the game). This amount of lamb will make 24-26 pinches
  6. Pop them into the pan one after the other as you quickly pinch them
  7. Fry on one side for about 5 mins then flip and cook for a further 2 mins
  8. Turn the heat down and squeeze over the remaining lemon and a tiny splash of water
  9. Turn the pinches over in the dressing, scraping the brown off the bottom of the pan and combining the lamb fat and lemon juice into a savoury, glossy glaze to coat your lamb
  10. Turn off the heat and serve immediately. Try not to eat them all on your way from the kitchen to the living room.

If you’d like to spice these little bites in other ways, go for your life. Replace the cinnamon and allspice with turmeric and fenugreek for an Indian take. Or just cut out everything except the garlic, onion and paprika for the fuss-pots.

Chicken pastilla triangles

Deeply inauthentic but very delicious. A study in contrasts, savoury/sweet and crisp/soft. Makes 8.

Make the filling a day ahead if poss. Gives all the flavours time to really get to know each other and ensures the filling is cool when you fill the pastry. A faff, yes. But a necessary one.

  • 4 chicken thigh fillets
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 large onion, sliced into thin half moons
  • 5 dates, pitted and cut into quarters
  • 1½ tbsp ras el hanout spice mix
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ½ tsp sugar
  • Salt and pepper
  • 8 sheets filo pastry
  • 3 tbsp veg oil
  • Sesame seeds
  1. Heat the olive oil in thick-bottomed saucepan over a high heat
  2. Brown the chicken thighs on both sides, then remove to a plate
  3. Turn the heat down, add the onions and cook for 5 mins until softened
  4. Tip in the dates, ras el hanout, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, sugar, salt and pepper
  5. Stir in for 30 secs, then add boiling water to the pan, around 300ml
  6. Scrape the pan well to get all the delicous brown off the bottom and bring to the boil
  7. Pop the chicken back into the bubbly liquid and turn to a low simmer with the lid on
  8. Cook for 30 mins, then take the lid off and cook for a further 30 mins
  9. Remove the chicken from the pan and shred it with 2 forks
  10. If you need to, turn the heat up and reduce the liquid til it’s a thick, rich onion gravy (you need very little liquid left or it’ll soak through the pastry)
  11. Add the chicken back in and mix through to coat it
  12. Leave to cool, then pop into a tupperware and chill until ready to use
  1. When you’re ready to bake your golden triangles, pre-heat the oven to 170C fan (190C)
  2. Right, this bit is fiddly but not nearly as complicated as it sounds…
  3. Cut the filo sheets in half lengthways. You need 2 strips per triangle so keep the rest from drying out under a tea towel or paper towel
  4. Brush one strip with oil and pop the other strip on top
  5. Press them together and then place a spoonful of the filling on end of the pastry strip nearest you, slightly on the left side and just up from the bottom.
  6. Now fold the bottom right hand corner up to cover the filling, and then fold over the wrapped filling to create a triangular shaped parcel
  7. Continue folding up the pastry strip until you run out of pastry
  8. Place flap-side down on a lined baking sheet
  9. Brush the top of the beautiful finished triangle with oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds
  10. Continue with all remaining filling and pastry strips
  11. Bake for 25 mins until golden brown
  12. Serve warm with a salad on the side

Ras el hanout

My version of the enormously complex Moroccan “top shelf” spice mix. Vibrant and earthy, it makes a brilliant start to a tagine, marinade for grilled chicken or spicing for a pastilla.

  • 1 tbsp ground cumin
  • 1 tbsp ground coriander
  • 2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp ground ginger
  • 1 tsp turmeric
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper
  • ½ tsp ground nutmeg
  • ½ tsp ground allspice
  • ½ tsp ground cardamom
  • Large pinch ground fenugreek
  • Large pinch ground cloves
  1. Mix everything together well
  2. Store in an air tight jar until you need it

Lamb tagine

Rich, savoury, spiced and sweet. Feeds 2. Serve over a pile of cous cous, scattered with toasted almonds and sliced green olives. Add a drained tin of chickpeas with the green beans if you want to bulk it out for 4.

  • 2 tbsp veg oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 300g lamb neck fillet, sliced around 3mm thick
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp ground coriander
  • ½ tsp paprika
  • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
  • ¼ tsp black pepper
  • ½ tsp pul biber (or a pinch of chilli flakes)
  • Pinch of saffron
  • 1 heaped tbsp tomato puree
  • ½ lamb stock cube, crumbled
  • 7 dried apricots, roughly chopped
  • 1 preserved lemon, flesh discarded and skin chopped
  • 400ml boiling water
  • 8 chantenay carrots, topped and tailed
  • 100g fine green beans, cut into 1 inch pieces
  1. Heat the oil in a deep lidded frying pan over a medium heat
  2. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally for 5 mins. Add the garlic and cook for a further 3 mins
  3. Turn the heat up, add the lamb and stir in until.it goes brown round the edges
  4. Add the stock, tomato puree and spices, and stir fry for 2 mins
  5. Add the boiling water, apricots and preseved lemon, bring to a bubble and scrape all the delicous brown off the bottom
  6. Add the whole carrots and stir in
  7. Turn to a low simmer, put the lid on and cook for 25 mins, stirring a couple of times to make sure it’s not sticking and turning the carrots over
  8. Take the lid off, add the green beans and stir together, making sure the beans are submerged
  9. Simmer for a further 15 mins and taste to check the seasoning. Add salt if needed and serve straight away

Spiced beef and chickpea stew

A marvellous marriage of a British beef stew and a Moroccan tagine. Sounds delicious – definitely is.

  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 500g beef shin, cut into chunks
  • 2 large onions, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tbsp tomato puree
  • 1 beef stock cube
  • 2 tsp harissa paste
  • 2 tsp paprika
  • 1 heaped tsp cumin
  • 1 tsp coriander
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • Salt and pepper
  • 3 tbsp pomegranate molasses
  • 1 preserved lemon, skin only, diced
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • 1 tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • 200g green beans, cut into pieces
  • Handful of green olives
  1. Heat olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pan over a medium-high heat
  2. Brown the beef in batches, removing it to a plate on one side
  3. Lower the heat and add onions
  4. Cook for 5 mins, stirring occasionally
  5. Add garlic and continue to cook for further 5 mins until soft and golden.
  6. Add spices, crumbled stock cube, harissa and tomato puree, and stir together. Cook for 2 mins while the kettle boils.
  7. Add approx 500 ml boiling water and the pomegranate molasses
  8. Season well with salt and pepper
  9. Bring to the boil and then cook over very low heat for an hour
  10. Add preserved lemon and zest, stir in and cook for another hour
  11. Add chickpeas, olives and green beans, cook for a further 30 mins.
  12. Serve with a pile of lovely cous cous

Lamb tagine

A delightful meld of savoury and sweet flavours – and a beautiful combination of tender meat bathed in a rich, spiced sauce. And, bonus, it’s super-easy to make!

  • 500g lamb neck fillet or shoulder, cut into chunks
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • ½ tsp ground turmeric
  • 2 tsp paprika
  • ½ tsp chilli flakes
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 2 cloves of garlic, chopped
  • 2 tsp honey
  • Pinch saffron
  • 350ml lamb or chicken stock
  • 1 tin chopped tomatoes
  • Handful of dried apricots
  • 1 preserved lemon (or juice of half a lemon)
  • 1 tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • Handful fresh coriander, chopped
  • Small handful fresh mint, chopped
  1. Mix all the ground spices together
  2. Toss the lamb pieces in half this spice mix and leave to marinate in the fridge for a couple of hours
  3. Pre-heat the oven to 140C fan (160C)
  4. Heat the olive oil in a deep, heavy-based casserole dish and brown the seasoned meat in small batches
  5. Remove to one side once it’s browned all over
  6. Lower the heat, add the onion and garlic to the pan with the remaining spices and cooking, stirring, until softened and lightly coloured
  7. Add the honey, saffron, stock, tomatoes and apricots, season and bring to the boil
  8. Return the meat to the pan, stir in and stick the lid on
  9. Cook in the oven for an hour
  10. Cut the preserved lemon in half and discard the interior pulp. Finely chop the skin and stir into the tagine with the chickpeas. Cook in the oven with the lid on for a further 30 mins
  11. (If you want to thicken the sauce, lift the meat out of the pan with a slotted spoon and put the pan back on the hob over over a high heat. Boil until thickened and reduced, then stir the meat back in)
  12. Check the seasoning and stir in the coriander and mint
  13. Serve with bread (ideally the flat white loaves served alongside all Moroccan dishes), rice or cous cous. Plus a spoonful of plain yogurt and a herby, lemony salad.

Moroccan chicken and cous cous

A fragrant, gently spiced, one-pot dish. Makes a straighforward, comforting, warming weeknight dinner when you’re feeling a bit tired and emotional. Feeds 4

  • 6-8 boned chicken thighs (with or without skin, up to you)
  • 2 tsp turmeric
  • 1 tbsp garam masala
  • 1 tbsp veg oil
  • Salt
  • 2 onions, finely sliced
  • 4 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 2 large carrots, cut into chunky slices
  • 1 red pepper, cut into pieces
  • Handful of dried apricots, chopped into quarters
  • 500ml chicken stock
  • 1 preserved lemon, flesh discarded, skin finely chopped (don’t worry if you haven’t got this, just leave it out)
  • Handful of green olives, left whole
  • ½ lemon, juiced and zested
  • 250g cous cous
  • Handful of pine nuts, toasted
  • Bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped
  1. Mix the spices and a couple of big pinches of salt in a small bowl
  2. Coat the chicken in half of this spice mix
  3. Heat oil in a big saucepan with a lid and fry the chicken (skin side down first) until brown on both sides. You’ll need to do this in batches.
  4. Remove from the pan and set to one side
  5. Add the onions and garlic to the pan and cook for a couple of mins, stirring them together until coated with the spiced oil
  6. Add the red pepper and carrots and cook for another couple of mins
  7. Tip in the other half of the spice mix and the dried apricots. Stir together and cook for 1 min
  8. Pour over the chicken stock, add the preserved lemon and olives. Stir to combine everything, scraping any brown bits off the bottom of the pan
  9. Bring to the boil, then nestle the chicken on top, (skin-side up if your chicken has skin)
  10. Turn the heat down to a low simmer, stick the lid on and cook for 30 mins
  11. Turn the heat off, take the chicken out and stir in the lemon juice, zest and cous cous
  12. Cover the pan and leave to stand for 5 mins
  13. Fluff the lovely, yellow cous cous and stir through the parsley and pine nuts
  14. Serve with the chicken on top, crowned with a dollop of harissa yogurt (3 tbsp plain yogurt + 1 tsp harissa paste)

This recipe is very forgiving. Which is what you need when you’re feeling a bit tired. Go ahead and add more of what you like, less of what you don’t. Don’t use olives. Change the meat. Don’t use meat at all. Add other root veg – celeriac or baby turnips work well – or runner beans. Exchange the apricots for prunes. Whatever suits.