I overheard a man and woman talking as they walked down Tottenham Court Road the other day, and the man said “my mum’s love language is jollof rice”. And I feel as though that is such an incredible endorsement of that woman and her cooking. This version is like a savoury expression of love. Complex, but worth it. Feeds 4

• 250g basmati rice 

For the broth

• 1 l water
• 2 chicken stock cubes
• 1 tsp white peppercorns
• 2 heaped tsp medium curry powder
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• 2″ piece fresh ginger, thickly sliced
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tbsp fish sauce

For the ata (base sauce)

• 2 red peppers, roughly chopped
• 3 tbsp veg oil
• 1 onion, peeled and finely diced
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tbsp tomato puree
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 1-2 tbsp hot sauce

1. Put the broth ingredients in a heavy-based saucepan and bring to a boil
2. Then turn down the heat and cook for 30 mins with the lid off
3. Meanwhile, puree the diced peppers with a hand blender or a mini processor until smooth, then scrape into a frying pan 
4. Dry fry over medium heat, stirring regularly, for around 15-20 mins until reduced to a thick, deep red paste
5. Scoop the paste out into a bowl and rinse the pan, then return it to a medium heat with the oil, and add the onion
6. Sauté for 8-10 mins until the onions start to caramelise
7. Add the garlic, tomato puree and smoked paprika, stir and fry for a couple of mins then add the red pepper paste and the hot sauce
8. Combine gently and cook for a further 5-10 mins, stirring occasionally, then take off the heat.
9. Fish the peppercorns, ginger and bay leaves out of the stock and bring it back to the boil
10. Stir in the ata and simmer for 5 mins
11. Then tip the rice into the saucepan, stir well, bring to the boil, then cover and leave to cook for 10 mins
12. Turn off the heat and leave the pan covered without touching it for a further 5 mins

Serve with grilled chicken and cabbage slaw. The rice is the star of the show here!